Harvest 2010

Production was down, but the 2010 vintage is already being compared with '02. (Photo: Die Guito)

“Better Late Than Never.” That’s how Wine Spectator describes the 2010 harvest in Argentina, a year marked by a slow sugar start, some potentially-damaging weather fluctuations and, ultimately, a lower level of wine production compared to 2009. But fear not, the finished product is still outstanding. “Argentinean winemakers are pleased with lower alcohol levels and ripe tannins which they believe have produced an elegant vintage,” writes James Molesworth. That’s the general consensus from the various winemakers interviewed by WS including Bodegas O. Fournier, Achával-Ferrer and Bodega Catena Zapata. Yields were down anywhere from 10-25% for most of the vineyards in Mendoza, but the lower alcohol levels have produced some beautifully-balanced tempranillos and syrahs. Across the border in Chile, Molesworth says the 2010 growing season was hurt by the earthquake, although some “cool-climate varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir” fared well. In other regional wine news, one Chilean producer hopes to boost sales by reaching out to a unlikely group of oenophiles: football fans. Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest exporter of branded wines, just inked a deal with the UK’s Manchester United and will begin advertising alongside Budweiser at home games in the legendary club’s Old Trafford stadium. A Man U rep tried to explain the deal’s synergy, “This is a partnership that unites the two great passions in Latin America: football and wine.” Despite the enthusiasm and Concha’s creative attempt to reach more Asian buyers, we’re not anticipating a Malbec Lounge at the Monumental or Tuesday Tastings at the Bombonera anytime soon. (Wine Spectator 2010 Southern Hemisphere Harvest Report)

Canadian festivals like Montreal Passion Vin are bringing more Argentine reds to market.

Canadian festivals like Montreal Passion Vin are helping bring more Argentine reds to market.

While the U.S. is scheduled to become the world’s largest wine-drinking market by 2012, the neighbor to the north isn’t lagging behind. “Canadians might have a new passion to add after hockey: being wine connoisseurs,” the country’s Financial Post opined early last year.  As one of the world’s fastest-growing markets for wine consumption, Canada is an important export destination for many Argentine vineyards. Canada also offers an interesting case study in the maturity and increasing diversity, both in terms of blends and geography, of Argentine offerings abroad. While lower-priced malbecs and malbec-shiraz blends from Mendoza helped fuel a 27% increase in wine consumption from 2003-07, Canadian wine connoisseurs are starting to discover the joys of Bonardas, Torrontes, Tempranillos, Pinot Noirs and even Cabernet Francs produced in other Argentine regions like San Juan and La Rioja to the north and Neuquén to the south. (Map) Canadian wine critics from Edmonton to Montreal weighed in this week with their recommendations which focused on these newer, pricier blends from Argentina. The geographic expansion beyond Mendoza bodes well for foreign investors looking to produce unique blends in the sandy soil of Salta or the cooler climes of Neuquén. While experimental vineyards  have been producing wines in these regions for less than a decade, the results have been phenomenal. Wine Spectator’s Matt Kramer confirmed this with a recent journey to Salta and an excellent review of several southern bodegas titled Into the Patagonia Desert.

Wine critic Matt Kramer writes of the "wonderfulness" of BA. (Pictured: Soberbia 22 in Palermo)

Wine critic Matt Kramer writes of the "wonderfulness" of Buenos Aires. (Pictured: Soberbia 22 in Palermo)

American wine critic and Wine Spectator contributing editor Matt Kramer arrives in Buenos Aires for a three-month stay and wastes little time getting to know the food & wine delights of his newly adopted barrio of Palermo Soho. Kramer authored several Making Sense of Wine books and coined a term “somewhereness” in describing a wine’s character.  Prior to his departure, Kramer—a seasoned globetrotter—says none of his friends or family members ever asked him,Why Argentina? “Apparently, the word is out on the wonderfulness of Argentina as a place and the Argentines as a people,” Kramer surmises, “And, let’s be honest, the word is also out about how wonderfully inexpensive Argentina is for those of us trading woebegone American bucks for even more economically bedraggled Argentine pesos.” In describing what makes BA unique, Kramer points to the “intactness” of the city and a true feeling of identity in the city’s many diverse neighborhoods. In his own neighborhood of Palermo Soho, Kramer praises the diversity of culinary offerings: “Around the corner from us is a Moroccan restaurant. Italian restaurants abound. And, surprisingly, there are a fair number of sushi places.” So for at least one veteran critic in Buenos Aires, it seems “somewhereness” has truly given way to “wonderfulness.” ¡Buen provecho! (Full Wine Spectator article)

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